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#給__的情書:Yours sincerely, Jesse Brouns/ 時裝記者

 

親愛的Martin Margiela:

 

我是在你的神話氛圍籠罩下成長的,雖然我從未見過你。布魯塞爾的荷蘭語社區聯繫非常緊密,很自然地,我的家人一早就認識Jenny Meirens和她的親友。當珍妮關閉她在布魯塞爾的Comme des Garçons店(一項建築奇蹟,全店都是玻璃和混凝土),去領導巴黎的Maison Martin Margiela時,我們都看到,迷人的比利時時尚,突然變成了現實。
當我自己在90年代初搬到巴黎的時候,我一位最好朋友,和Jenny的兒子約會,早期我去過的時裝騷,正有你們的份兒,是在一個廢棄的超市裡(那年十二歲,我看的第一場騷是Yohji Yamamoto和Comme des Garçons,也是由Jenny Meirens帶到布魯塞爾)。跟其他人一樣,我仰慕看着你如何改變了時尚,以及如何保持着影響力。僅舉最顯而易見的例子:Vetements揀選出Maison Martin Margiela最精采的部分,放諸今天仍然非常相關與合時。
與此同時,你已屬於歷史。你最後一次出色表現可能是將你獨立、前衛的時裝屋賣給意大利人。此後某個時候,你離開了。秘密地。由於您將Maison Martin Margiela當作一個公社般看待 – 通過傳真機匿名接受採訪 – 這個品牌仍然很重要,直到某天戛然而止。另一方面,你依然是一個傳奇。我們現在看你的作品,了解你對時尚的看法、你的衣服,早已有特定理解及共識 – 不再是商店櫥窗,而是在博物館玻璃之後。
你最忠誠的,
Jesse Brouns


Dear Martin Margiela,

I grew up surrounded by your myth but I don’t think I have ever met you. The Dutch-speaking community in Brussels is tight-knit, and so it was almost natural that my family would be acquainted, from rather afar, with Jenny Meirens and her family. When Jenny closed her Comme des Garçons shop in Brussels (an architectural marvel, all glass and concrete) to head up Maison Martin Margiela in Paris, we all watched, enthralled, how Belgian fashion suddenly became a tangible reality. When I myself moved to Paris in the early 1990s, one of my best friends was dating Jenny’s son, and one of the first fashion shows I went to was one of yours, in an abandoned supermarket (my very first shows, when i was about twelve, were Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons, brought to Brussels by Jenny Meirens). Like almost everyone else, I admire how you have changed fashion, and how you have remained influential. Vêtements, to name only the most obvious example, took all that was great about Maison Martin Margiela, and made it relevant for now. Meanwhile, you belong to history. Your last great act might have been the sale of your fiercely independent, avant garde Maison to the Italians. Sometime after that, you left. Discreetly. Since you built up Maison Martin Margiela as a commune of sorts — conducting interviews anonymously by fax machine — the label continued to matter, until at some point it stopped doing so. You, on the other hand, are a legend. We now look at your work, your approach to fashion, your clothes, with knowing perspective — no longer in shop windows, but behind museum glass.

 

Yours sincerely,

Jesse Brouns

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